This post is the culmination of a great deal of work by many people. And as I hope you will agree, it was well worth the effort!
Serving Trays were just the beginning point for me. The goal was to offer fully customizable Charcuterie Kits at my first event in 2023: the California Artisan Cheese Festival in Santa Rosa in just 2 weeks. As the pictures attest, I am ready.
You start with a Serving Tray … see them described, and see them very naked, here. This page is all about dressing them up.
Charcuterie is classically a collection of smoked meats and cheeses served to the delight of hungry people everywhere. The idea is really trending now, and people are taking the excuse of having a nice serving piece to do all sorts of offerings on a lovely serving board. To complete the presentation, I have collaborated with my good friend and potter, Nicole, the owner of NZ Designs Studio. She is also the maker of the Great Garlic Graters that are on my Garlic Dipping Boards, which continue to be a favorite.
After more than a few discussions about what would be ideal, she has made 4″ bowls – or ramekins, if you prefer – in 3 shapes and 4 colors (well, 5 colors. She’s an over-achiever.) that can be purchased at events for inclusion with your Charcuterie Kit. In addition, she has made very cute meat and cheese tags to identify some of the classic Charcuterie that you will probably be serving.
Then I went shopping and found sets of stainless Cheese Knife Sets that I am also offering to help complete your presentation.
You get to pick and choose among the options … but let’s not get ahead of the idea. The best way to understand this idea is to see it. I gathered family, friends and collaborators to create some unique and tasty boards for your consideration.
A big thanks to the food stylists and helpers that made this happen. I appreciated the eaters that helped when the work was done, too!
Nicole’s bowls are Red, White, Blue, Green … and Purple. You can go all matchy matchy, or buy your ramekins in all different shapes & colors. We did it both ways on the boards pictured. You get to choose what you like best.
Here are simpler pictures showing just the Serving Trays in the 3 sizes, along with the bowls in all of their colors. The knife set is also shown; a great matched set of 6 knives with spreaders, choppers, forks … just what you need to do anything from cut a hard cheese, spread a soft one, or pick an olive out of the bowl.
To purchase a serving tray, go here. If you want a charcuterie kit, or any of the pieces offered that tickle your fancy, then you’ll need to email me and we can work out the details. I will warn you that nothing will ship until late April. That’s good: you get to choose what you most like, and I will make sure you get exactly what you want.
It’s good to get things out of my head. These Serving Trays were a long time coming.
I knew I wanted to make trays with sides on them. That’s a classic serving piece, and I’m all about serving pieces. I needed to do serving trays. Finally, I found the way.
Serving trays are in 3 sizes: 12″x12″, 13-1/2″ x 19″ and 15″ x 24″. Small, medium and large. The 3 trays nest together nicely for easy storage, if you are so inclined. Sides provide 1-1/2″ of wall around the bottom of the tray, helping you corral whatever you might be putting on the trays.
Construction details are robust: all hardwood construction (naturally). The corners are connected with sturdy box joints. The bottoms, 3/8″ thick (and again, all hardwood), are captured in dados on the ends and sides for reliable load carrying. These trays are meant to be heirloom additions to your home.
The sides & ends are made of one of these three woods: Hard Maple (the lightest color), Cherry and Sapele (a very pretty dark brown wood, AKA African Mahogany). The bottoms are matched in some cases, and stripey in others. You can mix and match your set of 3 if you wish.
The initial thought for these trays was for them to be the base of Charcuterie Kits, and indeed, they are. If you want to see some pretty pictures of Charcuterie done at VMICA (the Velda Mowry Institute of Culinary Arts), then you can go here.
If you would like to purchase, that link is here. Please note that orders can be placed today, but I do not expect to ship until the end of April. The good news is you can order exactly what you want. The bad news is … exactly what you want takes time. My job is to make sure there is a smile on your face when you finally get to see your new Serving Tray!
Here are my current signs, in a slide show. And lower on the page … NEW SIGNS coming for this holiday season.
CNC Sign 20 – 141 – In Wine
CNC Sign 19 – 750 Let Food
CNC Sign 19 – 745 Coffee Def
CNC Sign 19 – 742 If More of us Valued
CNC Sign 19 – 739 Why Limit
CNC Sign 19 – 741 Many Have
CNC Sign 19 – 738 Too Much
CNC Sign 19 – 731 You Don’t
CNC Sign 19 – 725 People Who Love
CNC Sign 19 – 724 You Don’t Have To
CNC Sign 19 – 708 – Chicken
CNC Sign 19 – 706 If You Really
CNC Sign 19 – 705 – Only A Fool
CNC Sign 19 – 702 – Too Lazy
CNC Sign 18 – 115 Tell Me What Brand
CNC Sign 18 – 99 Cooking
CNC Sign 18 – 99 The Secret Ingredient is Always
CNC Sign 18 – 55. Hard Maple. 9″ x 14″.
CNC Sign 18 – 57. Hard Maple. 10″ x 16″.
CNC Sign 18 – 48. Cherry. 12″ x 16″.
CNC Sign 18 – 45. Hard Maple. 10″ x 14″.
CNC Sign 18 – 19. Hard Maple. 10″ x 18″.
CNC Sign 18 – 12. Hard Maple. 12″ x 16″.
These are software renderings of the new signs that are currently in production in the shop. The images are not entirely accurate, but they are the best I have at this point.
Not all of these signs are currently shown for sale on my retail site, but if you don’t find a sign that you want, just email me and I can do a special order for you. Here is the retail site for your review: www.MrMsWoodshop.com.
Little Girl was marrying E, and I asked if they wanted me to build anything for their wedding.
The answer was yes, and I got a to do list that was 3 items long:
A board for guests to sign. A keepsake.
Sets of candle holders to decorate the reception.
A heptagonal arch for the wedding ceremony.
I decided to make all 3 items out of white oak. I start with lumber.
No, this was not all of the lumber. I ended up getting a whole lot more lumber before it was all built.
The sign-in board was a simple 24″ circle, cut on the CNC. I then went to my buddy the flag maker, who used his laser engraver to cut words out of 1/8″ ply. Those were spray painted burnt umber with an acrylic spray, and then mounted on the piece. The whole assembly got a top coat of rattle can lacquer.
The time consuming project was making candle holders. I made 12 sets of 3 … so 36x pieces with 4 sides, 1 shelf and 16 accent pieces. Each. That’s a lot of pieces. The lumber had to be planed down to 1/2″ thick, so I generated a lot of sawdust on this project.
A lot of sawdust.
These candle holders are one of my favorite projects, actually; I first made them about 10 years ago for Christmas presents.
I have learned a bit and upgraded the garage shop since then, thankfully, so the lumber went from track saw to table saw to planer to table saw to CNC to router table to assembly.
A unique part of this project is how you assemble the sides that have chamfered edges to fit perfectly into a square without showing the wooden edges. No nails are used, just glue. And how do you join slippery sides of a square together without nails?
You rubber band them together until the glue dries.
Then you do the same process for the Walnut accent pieces, rubber banding them into place until that glue dries. The raw wood was then finished, again, with rattle can lacquer.
The biggest project in many ways was making the 7-sided arch, AKA a heptagon or a septagon. Internal height had to be big enough for E to be nicely framed … so 78″ it was.
Luckily, there are some handy polygon calculators on the interweb thingy that told me what I needed. Each side was 3′ – 7″, and every angle had to be 128-5/7 degrees. Simple, right? Of course, the miter gauge only has degrees, not sevenths of a degree. Time for some fancy footwork. Apparently.
The sides of the arch were configured with 3 lengths of lumber connecting to 2 lengths of lumber using finger joints and bolts to hold it together. I nailed pieces in place to reinforce each joint so that the angles would not vary one-seventh of a degree from the design. The joinery was important, as the arch had to come apart for transport.
And the heptagon would be assembled and installed by the venue’s staff, as I was to be elsewhere. I was told that I would be elsewhere a few times, so I knew it was true. And since I was to be elsewhere, I labeled each joint with a letter so if they put joint “A” together with the other part of joint “A,” all would be well.
The base was the final piece I made, and required a lot of head time to visualize what was needed. Because 7 is an odd number – stay with me here – the finger joints had to be 3 fingers on one side and 2 fingers on the other in order to mate up with the other 6 pieces of the heptagon. After a lot of staring at the wall time, I finally got simple and made the bottom with 5 pieces of lumber all the same size – but sticking out 3 fingers on one side and 2 fingers on the other. It was simple, but it was not simple to me on July 20. And the wedding was August 5.
The base was destined to be buried in the sand, but it had to have the structural integrity to both support the heptagon sticking 7′ into the air … and not blow over if an ocean breeze decided to attend the wedding. So, as I am sure you can see, I felt no pressure as I made up this plan staring at the wall.
Finish was brush on urethane, suitable for outdoor applications. The heptagon is destined to take up residence in the back yard of the Kenderas when they build out that landscaping … but first, the heptagonal arch had an important date with a beach.
Yes, I used that funny French word that people have trouble pronouncing. The word means smoked meats … and, when in France, you go to a “charcuterie” to buy, uh, smoked meats.
Why did that become the word we use for cheese & cracker platters?
’cause it’s fancy. “Fancy like Applebees,” as Walker Hayes recently sang (link below).
But I digress. Now that we’ve got our groove on, it’s time to talk about these new boards that have a couple of unique stories to go with.
First, I am pleased to present several boards made from Olive wood, which is new to the Woodshop. After years of searching, I just had to go out the front door to get this wood … when we bought the house in 1988, there was an ornamental olive tree in the front yard. The kids climbed in it growing up. Pretty tree, and a great climbing tree, to boot. But, sadly, the tree died several years ago. I had a crew out to remove the tree … and leave me the good logs. I then went to my buddy Charlie to “slab” the logs and branches that were usable. The ends got painted with a latex/wax combination so the wood would dry slowly and not crack. The wood then got stickered (small boards between the Olive pieces to allow good air flow for even drying) and then I left the wood in my storage unit to dry out. I didn’t touch the boards for 18 months.
Eventually, the boards came back to the shop for processing … and, time being what it is, I didn’t touch them for another 2 years.
But then the stars aligned, and I made the boards you see below. These are live edge pieces, meaning the actual edges of the natural tree – maybe even the bark! – is the edge of the board. About half of these pieces are finished with mineral oil and board butter, as I do all of my pieces that are destined to touch food.
Until now, that is. Some of the boards had knots, voids and cracks that needed attention, and needed filling since they were destined to be serving pieces. I reached into the bag o’tricks, and here are my first boards with epoxy filled, mica-colored accents. These boards were then finished with a Urethane top coat.
As is normal for me, all boards got non-skid rubber feet held on with stainless steel screws.
Two of the boards are made from live edge Black Walnut. My niece – the namesake for the “Kaye’s Board” end grain design that is a personal favorite – found a sawyer near Cameron, MO that had processed some lovely Black Walnut lumber and was willing to let me bring 5 boards back to the Woodshop.
So, new lumber. New finishing. New, as it often does, also means Mrs M had to have some.
But, good news, she decided to not be greedy and I do have some left for your consideration. These are, obviously, very unique, one-of-a-kind pieces. Please note that all sizes are approximate. Every board was finished to get the most out of the wood that was available, so they are not perfect rectangles. They are natural.
I have already heard from several people that want some, and 3 ladies are first in line (Jeri G, Reva W, Sue E in that order). Boards that I still have will go with me this 4th of July weekend to the Art In The Park event in Morro Bay, CA. Want to buy one? Email me at Henry@MowryWoodshop.com. You’ll need to tell me the number of the board(s) you want, and please give alternate choices if you have some. I will send you an invoice, and then ship the boards to you after the holiday.
Charcuterie 22 – 114. Olive Wood with Live Edge. Mineral Oil/Beeswax Finish. 21″ x 5″ x 1″. $100.
Charcuterie 22 – 111. Olive Wood with Live Edge. Mineral Oil/Beeswax Finish. 17″ x 9″ x 3/4″. $100.
Charcuterie 22 – 109. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 21″ x 7″ x 3/4″. $100.
Charcuterie 22 – 107. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 16″ x 6″ x 1″. $90.
Charcuterie 22 – 105. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 20″ x 8″ x 1″. Added to the Mowry collection.
Charcuterie 22 – 103. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 17″ x 7″ x 1″. $100.
Charcuterie 22 – 115. Olive Wood with Live Edge. Mineral Oil/Beeswax Finish. 16″ x 5″ x 1″. $100.
Charcuterie 22 – 117. Olive Wood with Live Edge. Mineral Oil/Beeswax Finish. 15″ x 12″ x 1″. $125.
Charcuterie 22 – 104. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 20″ x 8″ x 3/4″. $100.
Charcuterie 22 – 106. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 19″ x 9″ x 1″. $125.
Charcuterie 22 – 102. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 21″ x 7″ x 1″. $100.
Charcuterie 22 – 113. Olive Wood with Live Edge. Mineral Oil/Beeswax Finish. 20″ x 7″ x 3/4″. Added to Mrs M’s private collection.
Charcuterie 22 – 101. 19″ x 7″ x 3/4″. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. $90.
Charcuterie 22 – 108. Olive Wood with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 19″ x 9″ x 1″. $125.
Charcuterie 22 – 112. Olive Wood with Live Edge. Mineral Oil/Beeswax Finish. 16″ x 6″ x 1″. Added to the Mowry collection.
Charcuterie 22 – 116. Olive Wood with Live Edge. Mineral Oil/Beeswax Finish. 20″ x 6″ x 1″. $100.
Charcuterie 22 – 118. Black Walnut with Live Edge. Mineral Oil/Beeswax Finish. 12″ x 12″ x 5/8″. $85.
Charcuterie 22 – 110. Black Walnut with Live Edge and Epoxy Accents. Urethane finish. 21″ x 10″ x 5/8″. $100.
I make these Deviled Egg Platters to help make the world a better place. They are difficult to make: each one takes 9 hours to carve on my CNC. It takes about 90 minutes to hog out most of the waste with a 1/4″ end mill, and then a 1/16″ tapered ballnose bit advances 1/100″ with each pass to make the egg cups as smooth as possible.
Labor of Love, they are.
Here are the latest 11 that I have completed. 2 are already gone. The 9 remaining will be going to Bishop Mule Days over Memorial Day weekend … so if you would like one of these for your holiday table, speak now and I will get it shipped to you, no problem.
When I started making these, everyone called them surfboards.
They aren’t really shaped like surfboards, but they have a certain curvy shape that takes people there.
But, then I started making actual surfboard-shaped serving pieces or cutting boards (you choose how to use them!). I needed to rename these pieces, so … well, I am known for my creativity (well, sometimes).
Large Serving Piece was the perfect name. Name the thing what it is, that’s what I think. Creativity can only confuse people at this point.
The LSPs are made with cove cuts on all 4 sides. Cove cuts are made taking the piece across the front edge of the table saw blade, moving sideways – not through the blade with a straight cut. This makes a large sweeping curve which is unique to this piece.
And making those cove cuts spews sawdust everywhere. Saw blades are made to capture sawdust between the saw teeth, and return it to below the table of the table saw for dust collection. The sideways movement of this cut interrupts that flow … and I’m left with a fine sawdust over the entire shop as well as an 1″ of sawdust under foot after making these pieces.
Once the cove cuts are done, then the piece gets the signature oval-ish shape cut on the band saw, and then the LSP is smoothed with 2x different random orbital sanders. 4x non-skid rubber feet held on with stainless steel screws complete the piece, which floats lightly on the table.
I make cutting boards in a mostly traditional way. Some of my choices, though, are often not traditional.
Cutting Boards that come from the Woodshop are generally for one-sided use … they have non-skid rubber feet so the boards do not move while you use them. I am not a fan of moving targets when you have a knife in your hand.
When I do make a 2-sided board – like the Carnivore Boards – then the boards come with a non-skid silicon mat. Both the mat and the aforementioned feet hold the boards in place, and, importantly, provide an air gap so the bottom of the boards never just sit in water on the counter. That would be bad.
All boards are made from quality hardwoods, selected for their beauty and particular characteristics that make them good cutting board woods.
Last week, a pair of large cutting boards I barely remembered making – 6 years ago! – came back to me for refinishing. That is a service I do for free, by the way, but I digress.
The boards were 6 years old but were truly in fabulous condition. They had been well-used (every day, the owners proudly told me), and they had some knife marks as well as a scorch on one of the boards from where some hot pan had been set on the board for too long. I sanded the boards smooth, got the scorch mark as well as about 98% of the knife marks out, and re-oiled the boards. It took about 15 minutes all told, and the owners were thrilled with their like-new boards.
Did I mention they ordered 2 more large boards for gifts? I was pretty thrilled, too.
In preparation for last week’s event, I finished several cutting boards to add to my display. Here is what the really-new boards look like.
Carnivore Board 22 – 101. 14″ x 19″ Bloodwood & Hard Maple. Poultry side.
Carnivore Board 22 – 101. Beef/Pork Side.
Cutting Board 22 – 501. Black Walnut End Grain. Juice Groove. Sold on its first showing.
Carnivore Board 22 – 102. Hard Maple. Poultry side. Note the big juice groove holds 2 cups of juice!
Carnivore Board – 22 – 102. Beef/Pork side, with a more normal juice groove that’s 3/4″ wide x 3/8″ deep … much larger than “typical” juice grooves that are offered.
Cutting Board 22 – 203. Edge grain. Hard Maple, Black Walnut & Purpleheart. 12″ x 16″ x 1-1/4″.
Carnivore Board 22 – 105. Spectacular Black Walnut, on the poultry side.
Carnivore Board 22 – 105. On the Beef/Pork side.
Cutting Board 22 – 201. Black Walnut, Purpleheart, Bloodwood and Hard Maple. Edge grain. 12″ x 16″ x 1-1/4″.
Carnivore Board 22 – 103. Hard Maple.
Carnivore Board 22 – 103, the Beef/Pork side.
Carnivore Board 22 – 104. Black Walnut.
Carnivore Board 22 – 104, flip side.
Cutting Board 22 – 202. Purpleheart & Hard Maple. 14″ x 18″ x 1-1/4″.
When I was an itty bitty, if you can imagine such a thing, I was allergic to eggs. They gave me a rash. But, good news, whenever we went to a pot luck dinner at the lodge, or a family gathering, or whatever … someone would always bring deviled eggs.
And I would always sneak 1 or 3 when Mom wasn’t looking.
So I ate my way out of the allergy. Built up a tolerance, I did.
Deviled Eggs: a savory treat from a wicked chicken. Love ’em.
So, I knew that as I built out my offerings of serving pieces, I would be making Deviled Egg Platters. The world needs great serving pieces, and I am happy to help. And if Deviled Eggs just happen to get made by more people more often, well, life will be better for us all.
You’re welcome.
It took 2 years to design these platters, which each hold 24 Deviled Eggs. I worked with a designer in the Philippines who had more skills in 3D design … and less affinity for Deviled Eggs, come to find out. The design is exactly what I wanted, though. These are shaped on the CNC, as you might expect, and each platter takes 9 hours to carve. These are a labor of love; I make them to make the world a better place.
The platters are 14″ across, and 7/8″ thick. They are made for 2 sided use: the back is plain, and would allow you to serve appetizers, charcuterie, or whatever you might like on the flat surface.
Not that I understand why anyone would do this, when they could make more Deviled Eggs.
Personally, I prefer the Platters made with white/yellow/red woods (to match the Deviled Eggs), so I use a lot of Bloodwood, Hard Maple, Osage Orange, Canarywood, Yellowheart, Bubinga and Makore. Your mileage may vary, of course, so I will make others with a more varied color palatte. Eventually.
I made 7x of these last last year, and 4x were given to family. That left 3x to take to my final event of the year, Santa’s Art Shop … and all 3x were sold in 90 minutes. Time after time, I heard the exclamation, “OH, my friend/cousin/Aunt/Mother/Friend always makes Deviled Eggs, and she would LOVE ONE OF THESE.
Happy to be of service. They will be back in stock in February. Meanwhile, you are welcome to order one, here.
Once you purchase a Soap Drying Rack, 2 big boxes will soon land on your front step.
Really big boxes. Together, they weigh about 75 pounds.
These are your instructions on how to insert the 8x bolts to assemble each unit. If you are stacking 2 units, then you’ll also have 4 bolts to attach the units together. That is all that is required!
One Soap Drying Rack, on wheels, assembled and ready for some serious saponification.
Here is how you assemble your Soap Drying Rack(s).
Open the boxes and lay out the top, bottom, sides, 8x trays and bags of hardware. If you bought a double rack, only open the boxes (that are labeled) with the bottom rack. No need to confuse yourself with more parts.
Put the bottom on a flat surface. If you bought the Rack with wheels, then turn the bottom upside down so the wheels are facing up. Use your hands to press the tab down towards the wood and unlock the wheels. This will be much trickier after the unit is assembled, so unlock the wheels first. Note wheels are shipped in different colors, so I can’t always control which color is on your unit.
3. Flip the bottom back over, so it rests on the unlocked wheels.
4. Look for the letters that are handwritten on the outside of the boards mounted to the bottom. Now, find the side that has matching letters. When you place the side directly next to the mounted board, the 2x holes that are drilled beside the letters will line up. Use the 2-1/2″ bolts – the long ones. Put a single washer on the bolt, and then insert it from the outside of the unit so the bolt sticks through to the inside of the unit. Then, place another washer, split washer and nut back on to the bolt and make them finger tight.
5. Repeat with the other hole.
6. Repeat with the other side. Note: I always label every unit differently, so you must assemble the sides with the tops and bottoms as labeled and explained, below. It’s the only way it works!
7. Place the top of the unit on the sides so the letters match, and the holes will line up.
8. Insert bolts from the outside with one washer, then put the other washer, split washer and nut on the inside, finger tight.
9. Check a tray to make sure it fits on the rails and slides into the rack easily. Remove the tray(s).
10. Tighten all bolts.
11. Note: the bottom tray does not fit on runners like the other 6x trays. The bottom tray slides on the boards mounted to the bottom of the unit. You have to insert the tray a bit carefully at first, but once you get the hang of it, the bottom tray goes in smoothly.
12. If you bought a 2nd unit for stacking, then open the other 2 boxes.
13. Attach the bottom of the top unit to the top of the bottom unit (got that?) by matching the letters on the top and bottom. When the letters match, the holes for the top & bottom will match.
14. Insert a 2″ bolt (the shorter, thicker ones) with a washer on the bolt from below, sticking up through the top and the bottom. You may find that using a hammer to tap the bolt gently through the tight hole is helpful. Put a washer, split washer & nut on the exposed bolt. Make it finger tight.
15. Repeat for the other 3x holes.
16. Repeat steps 4 – 10 for the top unit.
Yes, I ship you 8x trays. The 8th tray is a bonus … and insurance in case one tray breaks in shipping. Plus, it fills the box nicely for shipping.
