Once a board is cut to shape and smoothed by either the planer or the drum sander … then it’s time for me to generate the finest sawdust that’s detested by Mrs. M. Sanding is no one’s favorite job … I actually use 7 different sanding machines to get the boards smooth.
The router table is the only way to get smooth & consistent handholds in place.
I did a 3/8″ roundover on each edge, as well.
Sanding is never a snap. Dust collection helps, but I’m still covered in dust after sanding with seven different machines, working up through 5 different grits.
I often end up using every flat surface in the shop, and wish I had more. Everything gets draped in plastic, and boards are floating above the plastic on scrap lumber.
Dry, pre-oil. Colors are dull.
Add oil, and the colors are immediately vibrant.
When the board is coated with oil, the beauty of the wood is revealed.
After the wood is saturated with mineral oil, then a topcoat of beeswax mixed with mineral oil is hand rubbed onto each piece.
The wax topcoat dries, and is then wiped off just like Mr Miyagi taught The Karate Kid.
Feet are added to most boards after the wax is cleaned up. Holes have to be pre-drilled for the screws – the wood is too hard to simply drill in with a self-tapping screw. Further, many of the woods will crack if the holes are not pre-drilled.
Stainless steel screws hold the non-skid feet on each board.
Boards are wrapped with a jute cord, and a tag is attached that identifies the woods used, gives the price, and has complete care instructions on the back. If the board is being given as a gift, then I remove the price tag and replace it with a tag that has all of the original information except for the price.